Culture / Turkey

The Tarlabasi Sunday Market

There’s this neighborhood you’re not supposed to go to in Istanbul.

It’s poor, full of drug dealers, bums, and (interestingly) the highest concentration of transvestites in the city.

It’s right next to Taksim, and some brave expats take advantage of the cheap housing and swell location—but you shouldn’t live on the ground floor if you don’t want your valuables stolen, and you shouldn’t walk alone at night if you’re a woman.

This neighborhood is called Tarlabasi.

Tarlabasi

Once upon a time, Tarlabasi was actually a wealthy neighborhood of Greeks. When they were driven out of the city in the ‘50’s, the buildings were abandoned and migrants from Eastern Turkey moved in—as did the drug dealers and other squatters. The district’s reputation precedes it—I heard about the necessity to avoid Tarlabasi before I even moved here—and I’m still constantly warned against it.

But there’s one really GREAT reason to go to Tarlabasi: The Sunday Market.

Tarlabasi’s Sunday market is epic. The whole winding main avenue is full of the cheapest produce in the city, including fruits and vegetables not often seen in Istanbul’s supermarkets. There’s also stalls and stalls of cheap clothes, scarves, toys, kitchen utensils… all of it for sale at whatever price you are able to haggle for.

Tarlabasi Market

It sounded too good to pass up. So Lucy and I decided to explore the forbidden neighborhood one sunny Sunday afternoon.

The market was packed full of people buying vegetables and olives and cheese. It was an unseasonably hot day, so we were both dressed with bare arms and legs—perhaps not the wisest choice for a neighborhood known to be a little sketchy, but we didn’t encounter any problems that we were aware of. We followed the crowd through the long winding market, sweating and taking pictures and buying bags of oranges to snack on.

Lucy at the Tarlabasi Market

Look at those scandalous bare arms!

Neither of us are great at haggling, but we were honestly so overwhelmed by the scope of the market that neither of us ended up buying much—we just soaked it in.

Tarlabasi Vendor

Fish in Tarlabasi

Lemons in Tarlabasi

 

I highly recommend experiencing the Tarlabasi Sunday Market at least once. It’s a legitimate excuse to visit an intriguing neighborhood, and the sheer scope of the goods on display is worth seeing—plus, if you want delicious, organic, and cheap produce, there is no better place to get it than here.

102 Comments

  • MaitoMike
    May 20, 2013 at 10:17 PM

    Hoping to visit Istanbul next year, and if my visit does fall on a Sunday, I’ll be sure to visit Tarlabasi – otherwise I will heed all warnings and avoid this part of town at all costs!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 21, 2013 at 2:17 PM

      Sounds like a great plan!

      Reply
      • Sanna Ne
        May 29, 2013 at 7:43 AM

        I stayed in Tarlabasi for almost half a year before. It’s a great place and the market was just one step ouside my building where I lived. I just wanna say that even if the people seems shady or dangerous, they are really good people. I got friend with most of them on the streets. If you have the currage to talk to them, you don’t have to feel a bit scared walking alone at night. THey’re your friends =)

        Reply
        • Katrinka
          May 29, 2013 at 12:16 PM

          I’ve heard that as well. It’s cool that you lived there– I looked at an apartment there but didn’t feel comfortable (plus it wasn’t a very nice apartment) and ended up in Kadikoy. Tarlabasi is definitely a grittier Istanbul, but I imagine that’s one of the things that makes it an interesting place to live!

          Reply
  • sherry
    May 21, 2013 at 6:20 PM

    Beautiful photos, but I always want to see more!!!!

    Reply
  • Shnookie
    May 23, 2013 at 3:12 AM

    These photos are fantastic!

    Reply
  • Charlotte Rose
    May 23, 2013 at 8:23 AM

    Thanks for this article really nice pictures too 🙂 I just moved to Istanbul 3 days ago! I am very to the city and will check out the market on Sunday I think! Do you know if there is a place where expats meet up for a chat and catch up? Thanks Charlotte x

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 12:03 AM

      Hi Charlotte! Welcome to Istanbul 🙂 There are lots of places for expats,to connect (because there are a lot of us here) but I would recommend joining some groups on couchsurfing.org (the Couchsurfing community is very active here) and checking out yabangee.com as well. And feel free to get in touch with me if you have questions or anything. You can find me here, on facebook.com/KatrinkaAbroad, or on twitter @KatrinkaSasha.

      Reply
  • Harlequin Tea Set
    May 26, 2013 at 11:24 PM

    I love markets, and these look fab! I’m looking to go Turkey at the end of the year, will look out for this 🙂

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 12:04 AM

      It’s definitely worth exploring!

      Reply
  • The Rider
    May 27, 2013 at 12:04 AM

    Well done on the Freshly Pressed! That is how I found your blog… just want to say I love your photos!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 12:09 AM

      Thank you so much! I really appreciate it.

      Reply
  • spiritualphotography
    May 27, 2013 at 12:52 AM

    nice stuff:)

    Reply
  • segmation
    May 27, 2013 at 12:58 AM

    Like your digital shots. The people look so sad. Were you scared when you took these?

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 1:06 AM

      Thank you for the compliment– actually none of these shots are digital! I shoot film on my Pentax– the only pictures on this blog that aren’t film are the occasional iPhone square that sneaks in. In this particular post it’s all film.
      I am always a little shy about taking pictures of strangers, so I was no more scared than I usually am!

      Reply
      • segmation
        May 27, 2013 at 1:10 AM

        i think I would have been scared. Thanks for sharing this! http://www.segmation.com

        Reply
      • Tanaista
        May 29, 2013 at 12:42 PM

        I love that it is film. I could never afford to buy and develop film the way I wanted and had to go digital, I really don’t like several things near as well on digital. I’m no where near you quality or practice, my photography is an aside to my art, but I love it. The first two shots are amazing, and the colors in the others ore wonderful. Markets are such a perfect place to experience a place, get to know the people, and learn to be comfortable somewhere. I try to always to go to markets in cities, even if just visiting.

        Reply
        • Katrinka
          May 29, 2013 at 12:51 PM

          Thanks Bethany! Film feels like an addiction at this point, because I’ve spent so much on developing it that I could have bought a nice digital camera already… but I don’t want to, I really do prefer the film. I love it, I can’t stop!
          And I agree with you about markets– they are always such vibrant places, full of fascinating things to see.

          Reply
  • Chris
    May 27, 2013 at 3:20 AM

    Do you develop your own shots? During secondary school I (briefly) had a photography module in art class — and have a nikon collecting dust somewhere — but never had the chance to do so.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:09 AM

      Chris, I used to develop black-and-white film when I was younger, but I haven’t had access to a dark room in years– I miss it!

      Reply
      • Chris
        May 28, 2013 at 3:26 AM

        C’est la vie I suppose.

        Reply
  • makeitfun4thumbs
    May 27, 2013 at 4:05 AM

    Great photos. What lead you to relocate to Turkey?

    Reply
  • surprisebjg
    May 27, 2013 at 4:32 AM

    Markets are a real experience in Istanbul. And you captured Tarlabaşi well.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:12 AM

      Thank you so much!

      Reply
      • surprisebjg
        May 28, 2013 at 1:21 AM

        If you will be in Istanbul for a while, I also recommend checking out: ‘limon bahçesi’ a cute secluded cafe off of Taksim, the prince islands/ büyük ada, kınali adası, etc. Enjoy your travel!

        Reply
        • Katrinka
          May 28, 2013 at 1:35 AM

          I was just on Buyukada yesterday, actually! The rest I will seek out– thank you for the suggestions!

          Reply
  • Lakshmi Loves To Shop
    May 27, 2013 at 5:04 AM

    Wow…what a lovely blog you have…I’m glad I found you 🙂

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:12 AM

      Thank you for following!

      Reply
  • ARK
    May 27, 2013 at 7:06 AM

    Hi Katrinka… Do you have plans to visit India any time?

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:14 AM

      It’s not so much a plan as an idea, right now… I have a good friend in Bangalore and tickets are much more affordable from here in Turkey than they were from Boston, but I don’t yet know when exactly I’ll be able to go. If I can, I definitely want to.

      Reply
      • ARK
        May 27, 2013 at 9:58 AM

        cool… advanced wishes for a happy trip to India

        Reply
        • Katrinka
          May 28, 2013 at 1:39 AM

          As they say here, Inshallah!

          Reply
  • onechicklette
    May 27, 2013 at 7:09 AM

    Lovely post. I also adore your name. A beloved now departed relative used to call me Katrinka. <3

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:14 AM

      Thank you! It’s a nice name 🙂

      Reply
  • leoniedyer
    May 27, 2013 at 8:29 AM

    Wonderful. I love your blog!

    Reply
  • Lindsay McLoughlin
    May 27, 2013 at 9:49 AM

    Loved these pictures… Took me immediately to another place. Thank you.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:40 PM

      I’m glad you liked them!

      Reply
  • moodsnmoments
    May 27, 2013 at 9:54 AM

    Aah, damn, I visited Istanbul, just a few weeks back and I didn’t know of it. Shame! The pictures look tempting and the neighbourhood raises curiosity. Missed it.
    Thanks for sharing it, perhaps some other time. Congratulations on being freshly pressed.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:41 PM

      It’s easy to miss… I’d never heard of it before I lived here. And thank you!

      Reply
  • pezcita
    May 27, 2013 at 11:10 AM

    These photos are so awesome they make me wish I could visit the Sunday Market too! Had to laugh a bit when you talked about everybody warning you not to go. As a single woman in a decaying US city, I get that all the time too. My usual response is “I grew up around there”. Why live in fear, right?

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:43 PM

      Exactly! There’s too much you can miss by being scared all the time. I think that if you use common sense and stay aware of your surroundings, you can avoid bad situations.

      Reply
  • ChangeTheWorld
    May 27, 2013 at 4:40 PM

    Great photos! Definitely seems to be an unsung beauty in Istanbul. Thanks for sharing.
    http://stepstochangetheworld.wordpress.com/

    Reply
  • wewerenothing
    May 27, 2013 at 6:28 PM

    Lovely post.

    Reply
  • Soul Walker
    May 27, 2013 at 6:53 PM

    I love markets. Your pictures look fantastic. I will have to add this to my list.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 27, 2013 at 9:44 PM

      You definitely should! It’s quite a scene. And thank you!

      Reply
  • My Camera, My Friend
    May 27, 2013 at 10:11 PM

    Nice post. I love the black and white of the man selling scarves.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 28, 2013 at 1:25 AM

      Thank you so much! I’m particularly proud of that picture, so I’m glad you like it!

      Reply
  • feelfreeorflyindia
    May 28, 2013 at 12:45 AM

    Fascinating photography of a country that lies on the top of my must-visit list! Loved the captures!

    If possible, please have a look at the photographs of Wat Pho that I have clicked. Comments and critique from other photographers will help me grow…

    http://feelfreeorflyindia.wordpress.com/2013/05/12/visiting-the-wat-pho-a-photographic-journey/

    Thanks a ton!

    Cheers, Vijay

    Reply
  • weallheartart
    May 28, 2013 at 3:39 AM

    This is beautiful! I love the photos!!!

    Reply
  • denisemariesurvivor
    May 28, 2013 at 3:57 AM

    This is extremely interesting. Just stumbled upon your blog… I love photography and I love learning about other places and cultures. Haha those scandalous bare arms. 😛

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 28, 2013 at 10:08 AM

      Thank you! Unfortunately I couldn’t fit her scandalous bare legs in the frame too 😉

      Reply
  • laurelpeacelove
    May 28, 2013 at 5:00 AM

    Fascinating beautiful photos and wonderful blog post. I just found you! And so glad I did. Many blessings~ Only peace, only love~

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 28, 2013 at 10:09 AM

      I’m glad you enjoyed it!

      Reply
  • dalo2013
    May 28, 2013 at 5:29 AM

    Very nice photos, and made more enjoyable by writing as well. Great post.

    Reply
  • traviscaulfield
    May 28, 2013 at 5:35 AM

    Great blog – I really love Turkey. I’ve traveled around the world and it is one of my favorite countries. Please keep up the great writing and photography! Travis Caulfield http://traviscaulfield.wordpress.com

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 28, 2013 at 10:10 AM

      Thank you! I hope you stick around and enjoy it.

      Reply
  • Doyle Air
    May 28, 2013 at 12:52 PM

    Wo what an awesome blog you have!!! Thanks so much, I thoroughly enjoyed your poetic voice!!! Keep it up. Can’t wait to read more Katrinka!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 29, 2013 at 1:30 AM

      Thank you for the compliments! I’m glad you like the blog so much. 🙂

      Reply
  • bhuwanchand
    May 28, 2013 at 2:58 PM

    Beautiful…

    Reply
  • laurenb05
    May 28, 2013 at 4:59 PM

    Those pictures are amazing

    Reply
  • The Rambling Philosopher
    May 28, 2013 at 5:23 PM

    Hi! I was just blog hopping when I stumbled into this. 🙂 It’s really brave of you to go to that neighborhood despite knowing that it isn’t a perfectly safe place. Well, buying good products at a cheap price is sort of worth the risk, I guess. 🙂

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 29, 2013 at 1:33 AM

      It’s brave but not foolish, and that is the key! I figured the potential reward was stronger than the risk (and it was).

      Reply
  • kiah9318
    May 28, 2013 at 5:52 PM

    Superb photo series.

    Reply
  • jleecute
    May 29, 2013 at 12:03 AM

    Nice photos and deep meanings but not very clear. You did them on purpose?

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 29, 2013 at 1:34 AM

      Thank you! But I’m afraid I don’t understand your question. Are you asking if I took the pictures on purpose?

      Reply
  • ourjourneytothesea
    May 29, 2013 at 6:24 AM

    Great to see people don’t get scared away from these types of areas. What great photos!!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 29, 2013 at 12:13 PM

      Thank you! There’s too much to miss in the world if you stay away from all the things people warn you against 🙂

      Reply
  • Naresh Ramadurai
    May 29, 2013 at 7:50 AM

    wonderful pictures 🙂 a big congrats for featuring on freshly pressed 🙂

    Reply
  • Tracy Too
    May 29, 2013 at 9:12 AM

    I feel like I’ve missed out because I never dropped by when I was in Istanbul! Awesome photos – can I ask what camera you use?

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 29, 2013 at 12:20 PM

      It’s an easy place to miss, I think. I use a Pentax ZX-50 that I’ve had since I was 13– you can read more about my photography here: http://katrinkaabroad.com/2013/01/31/my-photography/. It’s pretty basic. Sometimes I also shoot with my iPhone, though I prefer to use the film pictures on the blog if I can.

      Reply
      • Tracy Too
        May 30, 2013 at 4:41 PM

        Well, next time I come around, I will definitely make it a point to go. Just read your post about the harem in Topkapi as well and I agree wholeheartedly. In fact, we went there specifically for the harem because of what a friend told us! Thanks for the link and keep up the great photography! =)

        Reply
        • Katrinka
          May 31, 2013 at 12:00 AM

          You’re welcome… and thank you!

          Reply
  • thesilentfemme
    May 30, 2013 at 11:09 AM

    Lovely photos. I love markets, especially the less touristy ones.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 30, 2013 at 1:58 PM

      Thank you! I do too 🙂

      Reply
  • odiousghost
    May 30, 2013 at 1:49 PM

    I stayed with a friend there wonce, and your pictures really capture the feeling of the place! Great stuff!!!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 30, 2013 at 1:59 PM

      Thanks! That’s very cool– what did you think of the area?

      Reply
  • likkian
    May 31, 2013 at 11:15 AM

    Ohh I live the anchovies picture and that’s coming from a vegetarian. Good work! I also love the hanging scarves picture. The B&W makes it.

    Emily
    {Photography and Wisdom}

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      May 31, 2013 at 11:48 AM

      Thank you! Y’know, I actually had the B&W film already in my camera when we went to the market, which I wasn’t pleased about at first–it’s such a colorful market–but ended up being fortuitous because some of my better shots were on that roll!

      Reply
      • likkian
        June 1, 2013 at 3:00 PM

        Of that’s neat! You’re lucky that you did, even if you didn’t think so at the time!

        Reply
  • deshibanker
    June 1, 2013 at 7:12 AM

    Picture of vegetable is good…. what is it lemon?

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      June 1, 2013 at 10:45 AM

      Yes, it’s yellow bags of yellow lemons. Thanks 🙂

      Reply
  • ryansb90
    June 2, 2013 at 1:30 AM

    Reblogged this on Everyday Good Living and commented:
    An interesting insight into what looks like a great local market. Great photography too.

    Reply
  • iblurb
    June 2, 2013 at 12:57 PM

    Great Article!!!… Superb snaps!

    Reply
  • The Roaming Bean
    June 3, 2013 at 10:07 PM

    I love that you “took a chance” and decided to venture into the unknown. While many advisories are there for a reason, I feel that many are also over-hyped. As long as you are smart and follow your instincts while staying alert to your surroundings, I think it’s absolutely OK to travel into the “no-no” areas. Thanks for sharing this!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      June 3, 2013 at 10:26 PM

      I’m glad you agree! Of course some things are smart to avoid (I am not planning on being anywhere near the currents protests in Istanbul) but generally, things are not as scary as people say they are.

      Reply
  • Nita Said
    June 4, 2013 at 11:14 AM

    Reblogged this on chintamanis and commented:
    Exotic!!

    Reply
  • lifeofawillow
    June 5, 2013 at 7:37 AM

    incredible photos!

    Reply
  • Zachtacular1
    June 6, 2013 at 9:47 PM

    Great post! I really enjoyed reading about this market experience you had. It sounds like it was a lot of fun!

    http://lifeismuyfantastico.wordpress.com/

    Reply
  • J.H. Leonard
    June 17, 2013 at 8:46 AM

    Not only are there nice contrasts in the photos but there’s a nice contrast between the way you’ve juxtaposed the black and whites with the colour shots. A joy to read and to look at.

    Reply

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