Stories and Essays / Turkey

In Rainbows In Istanbul

In September, Istanbul was invaded.

They crept in by night, climbing steadily and quietly in the darkness. At first, the authorities fought back, but quickly conceded to the inevitable and let the invaders return, and continue to spread. Whole streets were conquered day by day. Neighborhoods awoke, looked up, and realized: they’re here.

Istanbul streets and steps, like Dorothy, had gone over the rainbow.

Rainbow Steps Istanbul

The rainbow steps in Findikli arrived courtesy of a polychromatic sexagenarian as a way to add joy to his beloved neighborhood. They were quickly re-painted gray by a misguided municipality and the outcry was immediate. This invasion of color was a welcome one.

Rainbow Steps Findikli Cihangir

Unusually, authorities acquiesced and allowed the steps to again go rainbow. And a new colorful sort of protest was born.

Azali on he Rainbow Steps

Rainbow Kadikoy Streets

Sidewalks and cobblestones became chromatic overnight. Stairs across the city mimicked the original Findikli steps– not just in the center or in the more liberal neighborhoods, but all over. Drive along Istanbul’s highway and peer out the window: steps tucked between dirty concrete and ugly underpasses are resplendent with rainbows.

Girl on the Rainbow Steps Istanbul

After the initial invasion, we are still in Technicolor. The steps are a pilgrimage point for people of all types– they pose and play and take photographs. This was an invasion of pure joy– and thank goodness, it worked.

Katrinka in Rainbows

10 Comments

  • pollyheath
    November 3, 2013 at 2:19 PM

    What a great burst of color — I think every city needs a little guerrilla art movement like this!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      November 4, 2013 at 9:29 PM

      I agree! Public art, street art, guerrilla art– it all makes me incredibly happy.

      Reply
  • thehulk03
    November 3, 2013 at 2:22 PM

    Beautiful pictures.Thank you for sharing.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      November 4, 2013 at 9:29 PM

      Thank you and you’re welcome!

      Reply
  • Browsing the Atlas
    November 3, 2013 at 2:45 PM

    Wow. I’m surprised the authorities left them, too. But how beautiful! Your pictures really capture the joy of it all.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      November 4, 2013 at 9:30 PM

      I was surprised too! But not disappointed– all the Gezi art was painted over, but the steps are still so colorful, it just makes me happy all the time. Thank you!

      Reply
  • sherry nadworny
    November 4, 2013 at 6:42 PM

    The stairs are so whimsical and your writing and photos reflex the whimsy. Great job!

    Reply
  • Harlequin Tea Set
    November 4, 2013 at 10:48 PM

    Beautiful, I’ve wanted to visit here for years!

    Reply
  • theredteleph0ne
    November 6, 2013 at 2:01 AM

    I’ve been up those stairs so many times.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      November 6, 2013 at 7:04 PM

      Of course! They’re in your old neighborhood. They weren’t as pretty when you were here, though. Come visit!

      Reply

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