Montenegro

Sveti Stefan: The Drama Of A Cloudy Day

Sveti Stefan

I have no problem going to the beach in the rain. Gray skies often bring out another side of a beach scene, diffuse the light, and make the colors pop.

But when I woke up to dreary weather on my last day in Budva, the day we’d saved to visit Sveti Stefan, I was bummed out.

Gray Montenegro Beach

Historically, the island (now isthmus) of Sveti Stefan was a luxurious resort for golden-era Hollywood stars, drawn by the ideal blue Montenegrin waters. After a fallow period during the ‘90’s, Sveti Stefan is again a world for the well-off; the exclusive hotel that leases the island from Montenegro only allows its guests through the gates.

Exclusive Sveti Stefan

There was no chance I’d get onto the actual island, but it is a World Heritage Site and a glory to gaze at, and the beaches on the mainland have a great view. We planned to swim on the beaches across from Sveti Stefan, enjoy the water and the view and pretend we were fancy. The private beach chairs on the public beach were absurdly pricey, but we brought our own towels and were perfectly fine.

Beach Chairs Montenegro

The rain stopped before we arrived but the effects lingered. Though the mirage of perfection wavered with the absent sun, the overcast day revealed a whole other side of Sveti Stefan.

Overcast Sveti Stefan

The post-rain mist and slate gray skies muted the colors of the normally electric island, but still the scenery shone. Sveti Stefan no longer looked like the turquoise oasis I’d seen in pictures; instead it loomed, it punctuated. The darkness of the day infused the scene with drama. The resort that we were not allowed to enter seemed less like the playpen of the wealthy than some sort of Bond villain’s lair, perched majestically offshore.

Bond Lair Sveti Stefan

We climbed the paths that connect the private beaches and the water churned light blue and navy below us. Even in flip-flops and sundresses it felt like we were spies, trying to infiltrate the enemy. All that was missing was a stylish Henry Mancini score in the background.

Swimming at Sveti Stefan

There was no opportunity to imitate Ursula Andress climbing out of the sea, however, as the water was far too cold on this gloomy day to swim– though a few other brave souls went for a dip. I reluctantly let go of my secret agent fantasies and sprawled out on the gray-and-pink pebble beach, noshing on fresh boiled corn.

Corn at Sveti Stefan

I think my overcast day at Sveti Stefan was more evocative than perfect sun could ever be.

4 Comments

  • Rhianne
    November 14, 2013 at 3:33 PM

    lovely photos. I love the beach in the rain, but then it rains quite a lot in the UK lol, so you go to the beach whatever the weather 🙂 I love heritage sites too, we always try to go to them.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      November 21, 2013 at 7:27 PM

      Thanks Rhianne! Rainy beaches bookended my summer travels, but I’m actually quite fond of them. They are full of so many FEELINGS! I would love to go to some UK beaches, rain or shine.

      Reply
  • Nancy
    November 15, 2013 at 12:31 PM

    These pictures are stunning! I love the colours and your choices of perspective!

    Reply

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