Personal / Turkey

Istanbul is the Crossroads of MY World

Bara and Lada in Rustem Pasha

There are a lot of clichés about Istanbul— it’s where East meets West, it’s European and Middle Eastern. There is truth in the tired phrases, but I find that the clichés are ultimately shallow, and only skim the surface of the reality of living here.

East meets West, sure. Old Ottoman mosques coexist with thrilling and inexhaustible nightlife. There are headscarves and miniskirts, bazaars and Zara stores; the city is pork-free yet raki-obsessed. These contradictions are part of the fabric of this city, the pulse that keeps it thrilling.

But what has surprised and delighted me repeatedly is how Istanbul continues to be a crossroads of the world… especially of MY world.

Elissa and Hagia Sofia

Friends have passed through this city at an increasing rate. Some have come specifically to visit me, and they’ve come from all over the world– USA of course, but also the Czech Republic, Israel, the UK, and India. Many others find themselves here for one reason or another and reach out to me. Reconnecting with friends from the past has been one of the most wonderful things about living here.

Kabir in Kadikoy

A few friends from high school have traveled from London; one came to Istanbul for the biennial and another for a weekend adventure. It was beautiful to rediscover why we were friends in the first place– evenings were full of wine and laughter and gossip and giddiness.

Kat with Nargile

Two Germans who I met in Montenegro reconnected with me when they ended up in Istanbul; they were still on vacation and I was home but showing off Kadikoy and the many charms of Moda made home feel exciting and fresh.

Two Germans in Istanbul

My friend Kseniya, who I met in Tbilisi and who made Kars such an unforgettable experience for me, swung by en route to Barcelona, and I got to show her that Istanbul is a lot more fun than Kars.

Kseniya in Istanbul

A friend I knew in Israel years ago reconnected with me out of the blue because he had an overnight layover in Istanbul; we spent a long evening eating sweets through Taksim’s curving backstreets and engaging in long curlicue conversations under an aquarium at my favorite bar.

My old Prague life came to Istanbul in the form of two of my close Czech friends. We cavorted all over the city with our film cameras, snapping pictures and eating baklava. I hadn’t seen either of them for nearly four years, but nothing had changed—we had as much fun, if not more, as we always have.

Bara and Lada in Istanbul

One of my dearest friends from college came over from India and helped make Thanksgiving feel familiar. We wandered all over, from Balat to Ortakoy to Haydarpasa, reminiscing and exploring and drinking too much and laughing even more.

Kabir in Istanbul

I am no longer surprised when someone asks to meet up as they pass through this city. The historical meeting point of cultures continues to be a crossroads, driven by airline connections and a convenient location. I love showing off this city and I love rediscovering the lives of old friends. Istanbul is a complicated city, but on this count I love it unconditionally. Come visit, friends. Come see where east meets west meets Katrinka.

Bam Bam Katrinka Istanbul

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