Malaysia / Stories and Essays

The Best Thing I Did In Malaysia: A Hike To Monkey Beach

Entrance to Penang National Park

At first, it sounded perfect.

A walk through the woods to a beautiful beach– who wouldn’t like that? When the guy at my hostel recommended a day in Penang National Park, I jumped at it.

I didn’t quite realize what I was getting into.

Jungle and Sea

The National Park was easy to get to from the center of George Town– just take the 101 bus  to the end of the line– and I brought two water bottles, since the sweaty Malaysian heat was as overbearing as ever.

I thought I was prepared.

The hostel guy had recommended the hike to Monkey Beach, so I chose that route; I had to log which path I was taking with the welcome desk of the park. (Penang National Park has free admission.)

Penang National Park

As soon as I entered the park, I ran into a pack of monkeys climbing all over the path and immediately regretted my route.

You see, monkeys freak me out.

And here I was, headed to a place named Monkey Beach.

Uh oh.

OMG Monkeys

Hiking through this national park turned out to be much more involved than I’d anticipated. Before long I was clambering over rocks, ducking under tree trunks, scrambling down steep ledges, circumnavigating a maze of branches and roots. (Thankfully I wore good shoes.) I was alone most of the time, which was contemplative and a little scary, especially when gigantic lizards the size of alligators crossed the path in front of me and I was too paralyzed to run away. Plus, where could I run? I was in the middle of the jungle. The solitude, combined with the fear that a monkey was going to jump out at me, kept me on edge.

Branches in Penang National Park

And then there was the heat. In the middle of the thick green trees, the humidity gripped tightly, and my shirt was quickly soaked with sweat. I was thankful for the two water bottles I’d somehow had the foresight to pack, but regretted that I brought almost no food– after a half hour of rappelling down small boulders and ducking under errant branches in the smothering heat, my stomach was rumbling.

Penang National Park

Occasionally a view of the stunning turquoise water would break through the trees, bringing a sharp breeze and a reminder of the beach waiting at the end. Then I’d remember the monkeys. What was I doing?? Was I walking into a scene straight out of the Hunger Games?

Through the Trees

 

Sometimes the rough route would give way to a boarded path, but instead of being a relief, this was often more stressful– the path was in terrible shape, and I was afraid the boards would give way completely– and I scrambled over, desperately clutching my camera close.

Is this a path?

The air buzzed with bugs that sounded like tiny chainsaws. I went long stretches without encountering anyone else on the path. I wondered what I would do if I got lost in the jungle.

The Lonely Path

And then, drenched with sweat and dirt and wildly hungry after an hour of hiking, I found Monkey Beach.

Monkey Beach

Actually at first I wasn’t sure if it was Monkey Beach, but I’d already decided to rest whether it was or not. (It was, luckily.) I made two wonderful discoveries here: first, there were no monkeys on Monkey Beach. And second, there were little huts selling FOOD.

Blue Sea

I collapsed into a chair and ordered some kind of grilled chicken (which came with a spicy homemade ketchup) and a tall lime ice tea. As I cooled down and silenced my rumbling stomach, another feeling washed over me– pure exhilarating adrenaline.

Monkey Beach Tree

THIS is why I hike– or run, or bike. Waves of happy electric energy buzzed through me as I realized I’d DONE IT. I’d hiked an hour through complicated sweaty jungle, ALONE.

The euphoria was incredible.

After my meal, still floating, I located the next best thing to heaven… A HAMMOCK.Hammock Life

I took an hour-long nap on the beach and woke up in awe that this was actually my life.

All my stress and anxiety from the hike washed away. Pushing myself to do something hard and little scary ended up being incredibly rewarding. I am a bit stubborn, and these are the circumstances when that is an asset– despite how difficult the hike was, I wouldn’t give up.

En Route to Monkey Beach

The hike to Monkey Beach was the greatest thing I did in Malaysia. The glow, the sense of accomplishment, the euphoria lingered long after the hike ended. It’s tempting to take things easy. But these times I challenge myself and then meet those challenges are the most wonderful.

I felt so good lying on the beach hammock, that instead of hitching a ride on a boat across the water to the park’s entrance, I hiked all the way back.

Like a pro.

Back Into The Jungle

15 Comments

  • channa
    March 21, 2014 at 2:28 AM

    Hi, I want to tell you tell you that this picture is very nice. I like this places and I want to go to visit at your country .

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      March 23, 2014 at 10:19 AM

      Hi Channa! Thanks for the compliment. I don’t live in Malaysia, I just visited– I’m an American who lives in Turkey.

      Reply
  • pollyheath
    March 21, 2014 at 1:07 PM

    Haha, Monkey Island with no monkeys… Sounds like my idea of paradise.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      March 23, 2014 at 10:20 AM

      Me too! I don’t why I ever thought that a beach full of monkeys is something I’d enjoy.

      Reply
  • Kirstin
    March 23, 2014 at 8:46 AM

    I went there a few years ago! It was one of the highlights of my Malaysia trip, isn’t Penang awesome!? My husband and I totally didn’t expect the hike would be so strenuous, but by the time we made it to the other side of the island, the sun was setting and there was no way we wanted to hike all the way back, so we hired a boat to take us back (I blogged about it here http://ivorypomegranate.com/2010/03/19/saved-by-the-bao/). Your photos are so gorgeous, I’m so inspired by your dedication to film!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      March 23, 2014 at 10:21 AM

      Thanks Kristin! I’m glad you agree– Penang is totally awesome. I bet that boat ride at sunset was just scrumptious!

      Reply
  • Doyle Air
    April 6, 2014 at 10:04 AM

    I remember hitting the islands with the komodo dragons after I hiked Mount kinabalu. I love your shot of the tree fronds silhouetted against the sky. captured so well! distilled with perfection Katrinka!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      April 7, 2014 at 12:44 AM

      Thanks so much! I would be terrified to hike with komodo dragons… I love hiking, but maybe not the creatures so much.

      Reply
  • Jen
    April 11, 2014 at 1:03 AM

    Fantastic post – love the pictures and I can image the whole thing. Everything always seems so much better after overcoming a challenge.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      April 13, 2014 at 1:48 PM

      I agree! It’s a terrific feeling. Thank you!

      Reply
  • Neha Sharma
    October 1, 2015 at 8:55 AM

    Hi ,

    Such a wonderful post. I am travelling to Malaysia in first week of Dec and would be in Penang for 2 days.
    1. Any idea how I could reach the National Park from Batu Ferringhi?
    2. There are two routes in the National Park. One ends at Monkey Beach and other at Pantai Kerachut? Any idea which one is better?

    Thanks,
    Neha

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      October 1, 2015 at 10:42 AM

      Hi Neha! I know there is a bus or two that goes to the National Park from George Town (where I was staying), and I believe it also passes Batu Ferringhi. However, it’s been a couple of years since I was in Penang, and I can’t remember the bus number.
      I think there are more than two routes in the park, but I only have experience with Monkey Beach. But the staff at the National Park should be able to help you choose a route before you begin– there should be literature about the hikes that indicate how hard they are and such.
      Enjoy Penang! It’s an amazing place.

      Reply
  • Ivan
    February 12, 2016 at 2:35 PM

    Nice review of Monkey Beach.
    I was looking for a small (but desirable) detail I still hadn’t well-planned on my future trip around Malaysia: swinging in a Hammock in the beach 🙂

    From your post, it seems this is possible in Monkey Beach! Is it sth you rent directly in the beach or how else does it work? Any other beaches with hammocks around Penang?

    Thanks

    Reply
    • Alvin
      March 8, 2016 at 4:10 PM

      Hi Ivan I can be ur guide…hihihi

      Reply
    • Katrinka
      March 9, 2016 at 4:42 PM

      Hi Ivan! I didn’t rent the hammock, I just fell asleep in it. But I was there two years ago, so it might be very different now!

      Reply

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