Stories and Essays / Turkey

Istanbul’s Gray Days

Lucy and Umbrella in Emirgan Park (Istanbul's Gray Days) Often I think the best times to explore Istanbul’s neighborhood are on the gray days. The threat of rain thins out the crowds, and the heavy clouds add drama to a city that’s already full of it. The Bosphorus turns the color of concrete but vibrancy bursts from unexpected corners—the red of a simit seller’s cart, the blue hull of a quiet boat, the unexpected patches of green grass sprouting under lonely trees. Rainy Bosphorus (Istanbul's Gray Days) The dreariness is romantic, in a strange way. Istanbul emits a false loveliness in the sunshine. This complicated city, with the heaviness of gray, is truer to the way I feel here. Cay on the Ferry in the Rain (Istanbul's Gray Days) There’s nothing like riding the ferry with a hot cup of tea on a rainy afternoon on your way to a quiet adventure. The sky sits closer on those cloudy days. You can find a smallness, and nook, a space to make your own. Lovers on Galata (Istanbul's Gray Days) Whether its exploring empty playgrounds in Uskudar, walking the long way up to Eyup, or running on the washed-out seaside in my own neighborhood of Moda, the rain and the gray and the clouded sky makes unplanned excursions into exuberant explorations. Rainy Umbrella and Tulips (Istanbul's Gray Days) An outing to Istanbul’s Emirgan Park is usually mobbed during the halcyon April days of its Tulip Festival. The park swarms with both tourists and locals desperate to enjoy one of Istanbul’s green spaces and craving the shock of color that the tulips bring. But on a recent trip at the tail-end of April’s fading days, the tulips had withered and the persistent drizzle kept the park quiet. Emirgan Park in the Rain (Istanbul's Gray Days) That quiet is rarer than park space in Istanbul; having these sprawling grounds to ourselves was doubly special. The rain was sporadic, mostly lingering in mist. Emirgan was atmospheric, and the faded flowers added to the ambience: a foggy oasis in the middle of the wild city. Holga Tulips (Istanbul's Gray Days) Rained-out parks, dead flowers—there’s something ecstatic about all the beauty that exists in unexpected places. Emirgan Park in the blooming sunshine would have been nice. Emirgan Park in the dying fog was a dream. The gray days are full of surprises, full of small pleasures.

6 Comments

  • pollyheath
    June 8, 2014 at 10:02 PM

    I totally agree – there is something undeniably romantic about a rainy day in the city.

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      June 21, 2014 at 11:39 AM

      Yes! Maybe it’s from growing up with summer thunderstorms in New England, but I adore warm rainy days.

      Reply
  • Natalia
    June 9, 2014 at 12:00 PM

    I can understand the lure but still prefer the sunny days!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      June 21, 2014 at 11:39 AM

      The sunny days are awfully lovely too 🙂

      Reply
  • Julie @ VisitingEU
    June 9, 2014 at 4:50 PM

    Beautiful post! I love the photos, and agree that rainy days can be the best. It’s all about one’s attitude!

    Reply
    • Katrinka
      June 21, 2014 at 11:39 AM

      Thank you! Yes, there’s no reason for the weather to get you down if you stay positive!

      Reply

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