February 2017

Posted on Mar 1, 2017 in Monthly, Turkey, Ukraine | 4 Comments
February 2017

February felt like a reset after overextending myself in January; it was a chance to be grounded and calm and to catch up with many, many friends. Lots of laughter this month got me through the last gasp of dreary winter. Best Of The Month I needed to get out of Istanbul at the beginning […]

Coney Island Of My Mind

Posted on Feb 20, 2017 in USA | No Comments
Coney Island Of My Mind

The world is a beautiful place to be born into if you don’t mind happiness not always being so very much fun if you don’t mind a touch of hell now and then just when everything is fine because even in heaven they don’t sing all the time (excerpt from A Coney Island Of The […]

Istanbul Half-Frames

Posted on Feb 14, 2017 in Black-and-White Cities, Photography, Turkey | No Comments
Istanbul Half-Frames

The hazy, dreamy diptychs that I can create with my Olympus Pen suit one city more than any other– Istanbul. It’s easy to forget after living here for so long that this city is so enrapturing. It’s even easier to forget the poetic joys of the place when the mood is darkened by short days […]

The Oasis of Haydarpasa Cemetery

Posted on Feb 7, 2017 in Culture, Turkey | No Comments
The Oasis of Haydarpasa Cemetery

It’s not easy to find quiet places in Istanbul. The city fizzes with relentless energy, buzzy and bustling, crowded and crunching up against your shoulder. But one of my favorite quiet places is hiding in plain sight. Haydarpasa Cemetery was established in the mid-19th century as a resting place for British soldiers, and exists as […]

January 2017

Posted on Feb 1, 2017 in Monthly, Personal, Turkey | 2 Comments
January 2017

After a mad bit of travel from the end of September on (during which I was never in Istanbul for more than 10 days at a time), I was desperate to stay in one place for a little while. So this January was spent completely in Istanbul, renewing my love for the city, and making […]

Four Years Abroad

Posted on Jan 29, 2017 in Personal, Turkey, Yearly | 6 Comments
Four Years Abroad

At the end of July, I sat down and made a list. On it was all the places I’d move to if I had to leave Istanbul quickly. Belgrade, Tbilisi, Kiev, Prague… places I could get to fast and perhaps settle into some substitute version of my life. After the events of July 15, making […]

The Kiev Crematorium

Posted on Jan 17, 2017 in Ukraine | No Comments
The Kiev Crematorium

When most people visit Kiev, they don’t spend their first day at a crematorium. But I was in Kiev with my friend Nate, comrade in concrete, fellow enthusiast of Soviet-era architecture, and we weren’t about to waste a sunny day on something that was just plain pretty. No, we wanted to see something strange and […]

Erasing the World at Kodaikanal

Posted on Jan 11, 2017 in India | No Comments
Erasing the World at Kodaikanal

When I was in India, Kabir and I spent a weekend escaping the hot city, fleeing south to a hill station in Tamil Nadu called Kodaikanal. From there, we hiked a short stretch to our accommodation in a tiny village called Vattakanal, perched on the edge of a valley filled with relentless white fog. We […]

Reflections on Bangalore

Posted on Jan 6, 2017 in India | 2 Comments
Reflections on Bangalore

I went to India for two reasons: to travel somewhere very different from where I’m living, and to see Kabir. Kabir is an old friend from college and he’s been telling me about his home city of Bangalore for a decade now. After we graduated from school, I lived in Boston and he in Brooklyn, […]

December 2016

Posted on Jan 2, 2017 in Monthly, Personal, USA | 2 Comments
December 2016

I spent almost all of December in California, a place that’s sort of home and sort of not home at all. It was jam-packed, as these visits tend to be; even better, it made me appreciate being back in Istanbul for the last few days of 2016. I missed the place. Best Of The Month […]