Two Years Abroad

Posted on Jan 29, 2015 in Istanbul, Personal, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Yearly | 8 Comments
Two Years Abroad

I remember New Year’s Eve, 2012. I’d flown in from Aruba that morning—a body shock, with Aruba’s 31-degree-Celsius sunshine replaced with Boston’s 31-degree-Farenheit wind. I was exhausted, but my boyfriend knew I’d regret sleeping through New Year’s, so we braved the bitter cold and headed out to Central Square in Cambridge. Thanks to our contacts […]

On Writing

Posted on Aug 14, 2014 in Istanbul, Stories and Essays | One Comment
On Writing

Polly from A Girl And Her Travels challenged me to answer these three questions about writing, and while I’m generally skeptical about blog-chain-things, I like Polly and her blog and I’ve been in a bit of a writer’s rut. (This is what happens when you haven’t seen your family in a year—they monopolize your time, […]

Returning To The Place I Left

Posted on Jul 23, 2014 in Boston, Istanbul, Personal, Turkey, USA | 4 Comments
Returning To The Place I Left

Tomorrow I’m going back to Boston. I’ve spent this last week in Istanbul living my normal Istanbul life: playing hostess to visiting friends, wandering around the city taking pictures, riding ferries, napping on the couch in my sunny salon of a room. And yet I’ve also been packing up my life, tying up loose ends, […]

Those Istanbul Nights

Posted on Jul 20, 2014 in Istanbul, Stories and Essays, Turkey | 4 Comments
Those Istanbul Nights

The blue roofs open to the sky and we bounce to giddy Balkan beats. New friends are made, danced with, discarded; beer mugs are clinked and the hours slip away as the live band fills the small space with exuberant music. The streets below are bathed in glowing street lamps. The main thoroughfare Istiklal Caddesi […]

Shooting A Discontinued Roll

Posted on Jul 9, 2014 in Istanbul, Photography | 4 Comments
Shooting A Discontinued Roll

I am constantly learning about film photography. I’ve been shooting and developing it since I was 8 years old, but I’ve never formally studied photography. Whether it’s learning about new cameras, heretofore undiscovered photographers, or different types of film, I find the expansion of my knowledge to be as exciting as the photography itself. When […]

The Chora, At Last!

Posted on Jun 27, 2014 in Istanbul, Turkey | One Comment
The Chora, At Last!

I visited Istanbul as a tourist three times before moving here in January 2013– over a year ago. I’ve explored numerous neighborhoods. I have constant adventures. I’ve been inside the major tourist attractions too many times to count. And yet, until recently, I never visited the Chora Museum. What a fool I’ve been! It’s tucked […]

Hidirellez: Istanbul’s Most Raucous Night

Posted on Jun 23, 2014 in Culture, Istanbul, Turkey | No Comments
Hidirellez: Istanbul’s Most Raucous Night

Last year, I heard about a festival on Istanbul’s Golden Horn full of gypsy bands and all-night dancing; it’s the sort of mad event that I can’t resist. At the time, I was planning to return from Amsterdam and be back in Istanbul early enough that evening to go to the festival. Well, I never […]

Ikamet Woes and The TRAPPED IN TURKEY Tour

Posted on Jun 15, 2014 in Istanbul, Turkey, Turkey (excluding Istanbul) | 11 Comments
Ikamet Woes and The TRAPPED IN TURKEY Tour

I’ve been quiet about something that’s consumed me. For the last eight weeks, I’ve been legally unable to leave Turkey. If I REALLY needed to, I could… but I’d risk a large fine and potentially a temporary ban from the country. Let me teach you a Turkish word: ikamet. An ikamet is a residence permit, […]

Istanbul’s Gray Days

Posted on Jun 8, 2014 in Istanbul, Stories and Essays, Turkey | 6 Comments
Istanbul’s Gray Days

Often I think the best times to explore Istanbul’s neighborhood are on the gray days. The threat of rain thins out the crowds, and the heavy clouds add drama to a city that’s already full of it. The Bosphorus turns the color of concrete but vibrancy bursts from unexpected corners—the red of a simit seller’s cart, the […]

Istanbul in Black-and-White

Istanbul in Black-and-White

Istanbul is overwhelming for the senses. The smells of coffee and fish and slow-cooked meat and exhaust. The  call-to-prayer echoing from every minaret. The sun on the Bosphorus, the yellow flash of taxicabs, the visual cacophony of a city of 18 million people. Photographing this churning, breathing, pulsing city never gets boring. I particularly like […]