Istanbul’s Gray Days

Posted on Jun 8, 2014 in Istanbul, Stories and Essays, Turkey | 6 Comments
Istanbul’s Gray Days

Often I think the best times to explore Istanbul’s neighborhood are on the gray days. The threat of rain thins out the crowds, and the heavy clouds add drama to a city that’s already full of it. The Bosphorus turns the color of concrete but vibrancy bursts from unexpected corners—the red of a simit seller’s cart, the […]

Small Adventures For Prague Scoundrels

Posted on May 27, 2014 in Czech Republic, Stories and Essays | 7 Comments
Small Adventures For Prague Scoundrels

“D’you think we can hop this fence?” “I don’t see why not.” Most travelers begin their time in Prague with a visit to Old Town, or perhaps Wenceslas Square or the Charles Bridge. Most do not clamber over bent metal fences in the formerly industrial suburb of Prague 7, kicking their way through overgrown weeds, […]

Would You Travel With Someone You Only Met Once?

Would You Travel With Someone You Only Met Once?

I met Bridget this summer in Montenegro. I’d been sick and stuck in Kotor for days. The hostel offered dinners for a price; however, I’d been too sick for the meal but hungry for the company. I drank water while everyone else drank beer. Sitting next to me was a pretty Aussie girl with long […]

My Prague Past

Posted on Mar 24, 2014 in Czech Republic, Stories and Essays | 3 Comments
My Prague Past

There was a time in my life when I was often late to class because I wanted to listen to church bells toll Smetana’s Vltava (Die Moldau). I would scurry uphill to Vysehrad, trying to make it to my Alternative Czech Culture class before it started. But as I passed the ornate graveyard where Dvorak […]

The Best Thing I Did In Malaysia: A Hike To Monkey Beach

Posted on Mar 20, 2014 in Malaysia, Stories and Essays | 15 Comments
The Best Thing I Did In Malaysia: A Hike To Monkey Beach

At first, it sounded perfect. A walk through the woods to a beautiful beach– who wouldn’t like that? When the guy at my hostel recommended a day in Penang National Park, I jumped at it. I didn’t quite realize what I was getting into. The National Park was easy to get to from the center […]

Traveling With Mama in the Heat of the South

Traveling With Mama in the Heat of the South

It was a summer of transitions, of transformations. My sister was graduating from her college in Rhode Island and moving to Los Angeles. My parents, after a difficult multi-year detour in North Carolina, were moving to San Francisco– my dad had already gone, leaving my parents unhappily living in different states for the second time […]

The Cliffs of Moher Bend Towards Home

Posted on Dec 5, 2013 in Ireland, Stories and Essays | No Comments
The Cliffs of Moher Bend Towards Home

When I was a child, I was scared of the ocean. I grew up in Massachusetts and we would spend childhood summer days on the beaches of the Atlantic. It’s an imposing body of water– dark blue and still cold during the hottest months, salt waves crashing into rough sand beaches crowned with massive dunes. […]

In Rainbows In Istanbul

Posted on Nov 3, 2013 in Istanbul, Stories and Essays, Turkey | 10 Comments
In Rainbows In Istanbul

In September, Istanbul was invaded. They crept in by night, climbing steadily and quietly in the darkness. At first, the authorities fought back, but quickly conceded to the inevitable and let the invaders return, and continue to spread. Whole streets were conquered day by day. Neighborhoods awoke, looked up, and realized: they’re here. Istanbul streets […]

My Roommate Makes Monsters

Posted on Jul 16, 2013 in Istanbul, Stories and Essays, Turkey | 2 Comments
My Roommate Makes Monsters

My roommate builds creatures. Gozde is a sculptor. Her works are offbeat, off-kilter, corporeal. She has a large studio near our apartment, the scene of many late-night wine-drenched heart-to-hearts. I like to spend time there, quietly, just watching metal and clay and plaster slowly transform from simple materials to marvelous monsters. We are well-paired, Gozde […]

Gezi Park and The Lingering Gas

Posted on Jun 19, 2013 in Istanbul, Stories and Essays, Turkey | One Comment
Gezi Park and The Lingering Gas

This is not a political blog. I started this website to share my analogue photographs and write about my travel adventures and my new life as an Istanbul expat. That’s still my focus. But the Gezi Park protests (which have spread far beyond Gezi Park, now) have affected all of our lives here, in ways […]