A Journey To Turkey’s Georgian Monasteries

Posted on Sep 23, 2017 in Culture, Turkey | One Comment
A Journey To Turkey’s Georgian Monasteries

Most of the wonderful places in the world are ones we’ll only ever experience through articles and pictures. No matter how fortunate or flexible you are, there will always be destinations that are too obscure or too complicated to get to; I have lists and lists of places like this, and I revel in the […]

“Isn’t It Dangerous?”

Posted on Jul 12, 2017 in Personal, Turkey | 11 Comments
“Isn’t It Dangerous?”

When I was in Tunisia in May, my friend Danielle and I went to a small island called Djerba to do stories about an annual Jewish pilgrimage. We were staying in a very nice, very beautiful hotel in the town of Erriadh, walking distance from the oldest synagogue in Africa and the central location for […]

On Travel, Home, and Balance

Posted on May 23, 2017 in Personal, Turkey | 4 Comments
On Travel, Home, and Balance

Recently I was gushing to my friend Masha about how happy I was to be back in my apartment in Istanbul surrounded by my plants, and how thrilling it felt to fall back into my routine of work and coffee dates around Kadikoy. “Weren’t you just complaining about being stuck in Istanbul?” She was right. […]

The Best View In Istanbul: Buyuk Valide Han

Posted on Mar 27, 2017 in Turkey | 5 Comments
The Best View In Istanbul: Buyuk Valide Han

It’s a view made for Instagram. The sweep of Istanbul unfurling below– there’s the New Mosque, and the Galata Tower, and the curling blue of the Bosphorus. The seeming precarious perch. The illusion of solitude. Buyuk Valide Han is part of the Grand Bazaar with a splendid (and accessible) rooftop view. It’s tricky to find […]

February 2017

Posted on Mar 1, 2017 in Monthly, Turkey, Ukraine | 4 Comments
February 2017

February felt like a reset after overextending myself in January; it was a chance to be grounded and calm and to catch up with many, many friends. Lots of laughter this month got me through the last gasp of dreary winter. Best Of The Month I needed to get out of Istanbul at the beginning […]

Istanbul Half-Frames

Posted on Feb 14, 2017 in Black-and-White Cities, Photography, Turkey | No Comments
Istanbul Half-Frames

The hazy, dreamy diptychs that I can create with my Olympus Pen suit one city more than any other– Istanbul. It’s easy to forget after living here for so long that this city is so enrapturing. It’s even easier to forget the poetic joys of the place when the mood is darkened by short days […]

The Oasis of Haydarpasa Cemetery

Posted on Feb 7, 2017 in Culture, Turkey | No Comments
The Oasis of Haydarpasa Cemetery

It’s not easy to find quiet places in Istanbul. The city fizzes with relentless energy, buzzy and bustling, crowded and crunching up against your shoulder. But one of my favorite quiet places is hiding in plain sight. Haydarpasa Cemetery was established in the mid-19th century as a resting place for British soldiers, and exists as […]

January 2017

Posted on Feb 1, 2017 in Monthly, Personal, Turkey | 2 Comments
January 2017

After a mad bit of travel from the end of September on (during which I was never in Istanbul for more than 10 days at a time), I was desperate to stay in one place for a little while. So this January was spent completely in Istanbul, renewing my love for the city, and making […]

Four Years Abroad

Posted on Jan 29, 2017 in Personal, Turkey, Yearly | 6 Comments
Four Years Abroad

At the end of July, I sat down and made a list. On it was all the places I’d move to if I had to leave Istanbul quickly. Belgrade, Tbilisi, Kiev, Prague… places I could get to fast and perhaps settle into some substitute version of my life. After the events of July 15, making […]

October 2016

Posted on Nov 1, 2016 in Monthly, Turkey | No Comments
October 2016

I’m posting this monthly update from somewhere completely new to me: India! This was a month of mood swings.  After a rough September, I felt reinvigorated and much more like myself than I have in a long time: capable, confident, creative; energized by everyone around me. But there was also some lingering blue, perhaps because […]