June 2016

Posted on Jul 2, 2016 in Monthly, Personal, Turkey | 2 Comments
June 2016

June might be one of the shorter months, but this one stretched out and took strange twists and turns. After the slog of springtime, even the sweaty heat couldn’t keep me down. Best Of The Month This month kicked off with one of the best trips I’ve ever taken: a weeklong adventure along the Lycian […]

May 2016

Posted on Jun 2, 2016 in Monthly, Personal, Turkey | No Comments
May 2016

I was talking to my friend Natalie about these monthly updates, and how much I enjoy writing them and having them to look back on. It’s been a year now since I started doing this on the blog– a year of books, music, memories, ephemera. What was most gratifying, though, was hearing how much she […]

Trapped in Turkey, Again

Posted on May 30, 2016 in Personal, Turkey | 2 Comments
Trapped in Turkey, Again

I didn’t think I’d find myself in this situation again, but here we are. I’m unable to travel outside of Turkey until the end of July. Two years ago, I renewed my resident permit for the first time just days after a new system was put in place– which meant that no one knew how […]

The Concrete Splendor Of Sancaklar Mosque

Posted on May 6, 2016 in Culture, Turkey | No Comments
The Concrete Splendor Of Sancaklar Mosque

It’s no secret that I am drawn to strange buildings, from the Brutalist behemoths I learned to love in Boston to the concrete Communist monuments left to die in the Bulgarian countryside. Istanbul is rightfully better known for its Ottoman splendor and early 20th-century baroque than its soulless 70’s apartment buildings and incongruous Atasehir skyscrapers, […]

April 2016

Posted on May 2, 2016 in Monthly, Personal, Turkey | 4 Comments
April 2016

This might be the first time I’ve gone a whole month without writing anything on my blog– at least the first time that happened when I also wasn’t traveling. Honestly, this month was difficult and seemingly endless. The good parts– and there were good parts– were lovely, but the bad often felt paralyzing. Inevitably, my […]

Istanbul In The Snow

Posted on Mar 11, 2016 in Turkey | No Comments
Istanbul In The Snow

Sometimes it’s easy to feel immune to the magic of Istanbul. Living here means that the sparkle of the city fades a bit as I go about my day-to-day. But every once in a while, something happens that makes us remember how special this city is. When I returned just before New Years, that something […]

February 2016

Posted on Mar 1, 2016 in Czech Republic, Monthly, Personal, Turkey | No Comments
February 2016

It’s the shortest month, sure, but whoa was this one jam-packed. I was in three different countries, spent time in Istanbul with a handful of very special visitors, and filled my days and nights with joyful adventures. Without further ado… Best Of The Month Sancaklar Cami is a modern concrete subterranean mosque on the meadowy outskirts […]

January 2016

Posted on Feb 1, 2016 in Monthly, Personal, Turkey | No Comments
January 2016

It’s review week here on the blog; after my look back at this most recent year abroad, I find myself at the end of January and due for a different sort of wrap-up. This month has moved in fits and starts; it’s been a time of reorientation after a month in California. I love Istanbul […]

Three Years Abroad

Posted on Jan 29, 2016 in Bulgaria, Hungary, Personal, Turkey, USA, Yearly | No Comments
Three Years Abroad

Thirteen months ago, I started a new job. I’d been in Istanbul for just under two years, and I was at a point of transition. I’d done the English-teaching thing and decided that, if the only way to stay in Istanbul was to continue to teach English, I wouldn’t stay in Turkey. I spent two […]

Istanbul, As Ever

Posted on Jan 14, 2016 in Personal, Turkey | 8 Comments
Istanbul, As Ever

I’ve started writing so many pieces this year called “Istanbul Is Safe, Really.” Then I get distracted, and take a little too long to finish it. And then some event happens in Turkey and I decide to wait and see that the situation is really okay. And even as the political climate (particularly in the Southeast) […]