The Unexpected Charm of Batumi

Batumi, Georgia was the biggest surprise of my Caucasus trip.

I don’t know what I was expecting, exactly, but it certainly wasn’t what I found.

I was absolutely smitten with Batumi. What a shock! I hadn’t given Batumi much thought; the beach intrigued me and the flight from Istanbul was inexpensive, but I viewed the city as a quick stop before the main attraction of Tbilisi. It turns out that Batumi is a perfect introduction to Georgia. Batumi retains an intoxicating down-to-earth vibe—strange for a city that is dominated by hotel construction. And there is a LOT of construction going on in Batumi. But unlike in Istanbul (where new buildings tend to be ugly), the new buildings here have some level of style, or at least appreciable kitsch. (I saw a coliseum, an “upside-down” house, and a La Pedrera-esque bank building.) And despite the construction, the city maintains its charm. Many buildings have little ornate details, faded pastel colors, and long cobblestoned streets pressing up to the doorways. The feeling of water is ever-present, even if the sea is unseen. It makes Batumi easy to get a handle on—orient yourself (geographically, spiritually, whatever) towards the sea and the rest sort of flows. This is a beach city, laid-back and resplendent in summer. I spent most of my time wandering around the colorful streets and acclimating myself to Georgia: the strange script, the street style, the heart-stopping egg-and-butter-drenched Adjarian khachapuri. Batumi’s heavy summer heat and swaying palm trees stood in contrast with the rolling gray clouds that periodically threatened during the day; luckily for me, the rain held off and I had plenty of time to swim in the Black Sea, promenade along Batumi’s boardwalk, and admire the many public art installations that dotted the shoreline. Even when I wasn’t by the water, the city enticed. Each tree-shaded street beckoned with promises of new things to discover, or pretty things to see. The few buildings that appear more blocky and Soviet often have some charm, too. You want to party on the beach all night? Batumi’s got it. You care more for cute cafes and lush parks to lounge in? Batumi’s got that, too. Its charm radiates from the sea, from the streets, from the shore. Batumi’s a dream. Who would’ve thunk it!

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