The Perfect Quiet of Off-Season North Cyprus

Traveling off-season to North Cyprus is very quiet.

I went in December, when the summer sun crowds had long dispersed from the Mediterranean shores. My hostel in Kyrenia was nearly empty, except for a few Turks. As far as I could tell, so was my hotel in Famagusta. The island was by no means empty– people live here, after all– but it was evident that each city was equipped for a larger capacity. In Famagusta, all the restaurants and cafes in the old city closed by 7pm.

However, traveling to North Cyprus off-season was just what I needed.

November was a mad month for me– I had guests nearly every weekend. Thanksgiving, the crowning jewel at the end of the month, was the pinnacle of overexertion– I cooked for hours, I ate for hours, I drank for hours, I danced for hours. I was completely burned out by the time December rolled in.

North Cyprus was a perfect break from Istanbul for a few days. It was around 20 degrees warmer, and while it wasn’t close to summery (we’re talking 40 degrees in Istanbul v.s 60 degrees in North Cyprus), it still felt wonderful to stop shivering.

I started in Kyrenia, a popular base on the western shore of the island. Kyrenia’s harbor is a circular beauty, full of colorful boats and surrounded by quaint (if overpriced) restaurants.

Kyrenia’s main attraction is its castle, which contains numerous little exhibits about the history of Kyrenia and killer views of the harbor. Besides roving packs of identically-jacketed men, Kyrenia is slow in December; I spent time reading and letting the sea lull me into daydreams. It was glorious.

Kyrenia is a convenient base to explore much of North Cyprus, including the Bellapais Monastery, which is a short drive from the city. The old monastery is hushed and surrounded by flowering bushes and orange trees. It doesn’t take long to see it all, but I lingered anyway, drunk on the fresh fragrant air.

Famagusta, on North Cyprus’s east coast, is full of grand ruins and a sweet little old city neighborhood full of cafes and boutiques. It’s certainly quiet, but it’s enjoyable to wander the streets and bump into so many traces of history. The fruit trees were positively dripping with citrus— overripe lemons and oranges spilled onto the sidewalks in a riot of yellow and orange.

I was determined to see the sea, so I left the old city walls and wandered down to the shore. The day was overcast and the Mediterranean crashed and churned spectacularly. I was completely enthralled.

If you’re looking for excitement and never-ending stimulation, North Cyprus in December is probably not the place for you. But if you need some quiet contemplative loveliness, I can’t think of a better place to while away your time.