Dublin On My Mind

I’ve been trying to write about Dublin for months.

I’ve held that city in my mind, letting it glow, letting it buoy me.

And yet I’ve struggled to articulate my time in Dublin.

Though I was in town for a bit more than four days, three of those were completely consumed by TBEX, where I spent most of my time inside the hotel at the conference (or inside the bar where the nightly party was rolling). That meant that I had one full day to explore Dublin myself, which was enough time to convince me that one day is not long enough.

I knew as soon as I got to Dublin that this city was something special. Maybe it was the crisp luscious autumn air. Maybe I was just relieved to be in Ireland, after a particularly atrocious travel day.

However, I think it was something more.

I’d moved from Boston to Istanbul about nine months before I went to TBEX. Istanbul never reminds me of Boston. It looks different, it smells different, it FEELS different… the city dances to a completely different beat.

But Dublin reminded me of Boston constantly, and in lovely ways.

Some of it was the architecture. Modern buildings on the river looked so much like Boston’s Seaport, the brick buildings in Dublin’s heart were obvious predecessors to classic Boston’s. The winding back alleys felt like getting lost in central Boston’s curvy horsepath roads. Even the names of places were familiar: streets and neighborhoods of Dublin share names with many bars in Boston. The Temple Bar I knew was actually a bar; Grafton Street is a pub.

In many ways, Dublin felt so achingly familiar— a bizarre series of déjà-vus, an old friend I’d never met before.

Because of this, I felt incredibly comfortable the whole time I was in Dublin. After a summer exploring the Caucasus and the Balkans, followed by some early-fall unrest in Istanbul, this time in Dublin was most welcome. Even though the conference was mad and busy and exhilarating, I felt like I could finally breathe. My one free Dublin day could have stretched out endlessly.

The beginning of the week was rainy but my Dublin day was drenched in sunshine. I started my exploration in the area I was staying in: Smithfield. There old classic brick buildings have been recently rejuvenated; the area’s fresh modernity reminded me of Boston’s waterfront and Kendall Square in Cambridge. What was once rundown is now sleek and hip. Smithfield is all artisanal sandwiches and fancy bars lined with heavy maroon books and bike-shares. I loved it.

From there, I wandered towards the Guinness Storehouse. The first time I went there was during TBEX’s opening night party. I was intrigued by the shadowy cobblestoned streets lined with large brick warehouse buildings… but that night slipped away into a whirl of dark beer and Irish delicacies and hours of laughter and conversation.

When I returned by day, the memory of that wild evening still lingered, but the sharp alleys were now drenched in Irish sunshine. I loved how historical this part of the city felt; it was hushed and the vats of the storehouse loomed tall over the sidewalks.

I curved, meandered, ran into the riverside. I was thrilled to accidentally stumble upon the Temple Bar Saturday Market, a lively sprawl of organic produce, pulled-pork food trucks blasting Os Mutantes, artisanal boozy jams stands, homemade breads and cheeses and cured meats, and live music. It was exactly the sort of place I love, and the sunny mild day was ideal for hanging out and stealing free samples of salsas and olives. And there was a free photography museum smackdab in the middle of it all! Everything was exuberant.

As afternoon curled around the bend I sought out open spaces. Istanbul doesn’t have a lot of green space, but Boston does– it’s one of the things I continue to miss about my former home. Dublin again reminded me of Boston; St Stephen’s Green is a sprawling park in the middle of the city that quickly fills up with happy people on sunshiney days.

Trinity College might be gray stone instead of red brick, but wandering through the courtyard while students lounged giddily on the grass couldn’t help but remind me of Harvard Yard.

I soaked it in, all of it. I let it under my skin.

The day ended as all days should—with cold pints and carefree laughter. After a day of solitary wandering, I connected with friends—from TBEX and from Istanbul—and we had a raucous time in a crowded Dublin bar. It was joyous, like all the rest of my time in Dublin.

I’ve held onto this city tightly since I left it, keeping Dublin close to my heart. I love Istanbul, but sometimes I find myself daydreaming about the high-spirited city on the banks of the river Liffey.

Dear Dublin. I turn it over like a pearl in my mind. Dublin, you glorious town. Dublin, you magnificent creature. Dublin, I love you so. I’ll be back.