Street Art and Chill Vibes in Penang

I had to escape the overwhelming heat. I’d been walking for hours under the bright Penang sun, and I desperately needed a seat, a cold drink, shade.

I wandered dazed down Lebuh Campbell and turned into a small dark alley that was filled with people. I’d like to pretend that “stand in the middle of everything and look confused” is a secret tactic I use to get my bearings; in reality, I was overwhelmed by the bustle of the place. A waitress nudged me towards an open chair at an occupied table and I settled in next to an old Chinese man and a younger guy with long nails tapping away on a smartphone.

I ordered tea and received a splendid iced version with condensed milk. And then, despite my general awkwardness and exhaustion, the three of us started a conversation. With the younger man serving as an occasional translator between me and the old man, we talked about Penang and travel and Chinese New Year. They ordered me the grilled bread that this particular alley cafe was famous for. They taught me a little Mandarin, a little Malay. When I left, they paid for my tea.

These little unexpected moments of loveliness happened to me all over Malaysia, and especially all over Penang.

Originally my plan was to stay in Penang for only three nights, but once I got a taste of this laid-back island, I quickly extended my stay. After a hectic month in Istanbul, I craved the sunshine and quiet of pre-Chinese New Year George Town. I already knew about Penang’s famous food scene, but that wasn’t all that hooked me. The hand-painted slats of half-closed shops, the colorful lanterns strung down streets, the Chinese temples full of incense, the vibrant Little India with its rows of sari-selling shops… every corner I turned brought another delight.

My friend Azali, who invited me to Malaysia in the first place (and who I would later join in Kuala Lumpur), informed me before I arrived about Penang’s burgeoning street art scene. I’m mad about street art, and I set out on a scavenger hunt for the best of it. Most of the famous art in George Town is gathered on Lebuh Armenia and the nearby streets. My hostel provided maps with the main artwork marked, though I found plenty that was not on the map.

Street art hunting was the perfect counterpoint to my endless Penang food crawl. I found myself wandering back around the street art over and over again, both alone and with friends, as Penang’s Chinese-owned shops slowly closed for the holiday.

George Town’s street art isn’t limited to wall painting. The city commissioned these metal sculptures that depict the history of the streets– for example, a sculpture illustrates how Lebuh Armenia’s name originates from a time when there was a large Armenian merchant population clustered on the street. The sculptures bring the hidden stories of George Town to life—they are delightful AND educational.

The laid-back days found me exploring Little India, where Bollywood tunes blasted from storefronts and women drifted by in bright saris. Other days I wandered to George Town’s pier, which by day was quiet and surrounded by turquoise water.

This was Penang, for me—an endless spool of laid-back days, brief new friends in coffee shops, corners crammed with art. The colorful streets of George Town and the shaded alleys filled with surprises—Penang is a perfect place to chill out.