The Chora, At Last!

I visited Istanbul as a tourist three times before moving here in January 2013– over a year ago.

I’ve explored numerous neighborhoods. I have constant adventures. I’ve been inside the major tourist attractions too many times to count.

And yet, until recently, I never visited the Chora Museum.

What a fool I’ve been!

It’s tucked away in Fener, the rundown neighborhood on the edge of the Golden Horn, and sits quiet and unimposing among the cobblestoned hills. The Chora is an old Byzantine-era church from the year 1077, and from the outside it looks old but not particularly impressive.

But inside are mosaics more stunning than the Hagia Sofia’s.

The Hagia Sofia is impressive in its largeness, but the Chora is overwhelming in its density– nearly every surface is covered in gold-speckled mosaics. It’s the best preserved example of a Byzantine-era church in existence—almost all the mosaics are still intact on the walls of the Chora. It reminded me of the Rustem Pasha Mosque, which is tiny compared to the Blue Mosque or the Sulemaniye Mosque, but overwhelms the senses with spectacular tile work.

The Chora Museum isn’t as easily accessible as the Hagia Sofia, but I highly recommend seeking it out. It’s quickly become one of my favorite attractions in Istanbul. The walls surround with their ancient glory, the tiny space enfolds you. The neighborhood around the Chora is completely different from the mad tourist bustle of Sultanahmet– Fener is less polished, quieter, and comfortably lived-in. And yet here in the middle is this Byzantine gem.

Maybe it’s good that I waited so long to visit The Chora—it made my first experience there that much more electric.

The Chora Museum is open from 9am-7pm during the summer months and 9am-5pm in the winter. It’s closed on Wednesday. Admission is 15tl.