Reconsidering Diyarbakir
The last time I was in Diyarbakir, Turkey, it was in July during Ramadan. The southeastern city felt…
May 23, 2015The last time I was in Diyarbakir, Turkey, it was in July during Ramadan. The southeastern city felt…
May 23, 2015APRIL is the cruellest month, breeding Lilacs out of the dead land, mixing Memory and desire, stirring Dull…
April 17, 2015I still live in Istanbul. That statement seems fairly obvious to me, but maybe it isn’t to you.…
March 31, 2015I remember New Year’s Eve, 2012. I’d flown in from Aruba that morning—a body shock, with Aruba’s 31-degree-Celsius…
January 29, 2015It’s that time of year when everyone starts reflecting on the year that is passing, and the milestones…
December 26, 2014Down on Turkey’s southwest coast, past Fethiye and Oludeniz with its swarms of sun-baked British tourists, there is…
December 8, 2014To me, a bicycle is freedom. Traveling under your own speed feels completely liberating. Pushing past inclines, breezing…
December 4, 2014It is not unusual to meet Turks in Istanbul who have never been farther east than Ankara, the…
November 10, 2014Mardin. MARDIN. I was not expecting Mardin. Southeast Turkey was not only different from all the other places…
October 21, 2014In March, I dreamed I went to Hasankeyf. It was one of those vivid dreams that seem like…
October 3, 2014