March 2017

Posted on Apr 3, 2017 in Monthly, Personal | 2 Comments
March 2017

Best of the Month I took a four-day trip to Macedonia with my darling friend Simone. She lives in Germany, but spent the summer of 2015 in Istanbul, when we went on a heart-expanding trip to Cappadocia. We’ve been talking about doing another trip ever since, so I pitched a few suggestions and we landed […]

The Best View In Istanbul: Buyuk Valide Han

Posted on Mar 27, 2017 in Turkey | 2 Comments
The Best View In Istanbul: Buyuk Valide Han

It’s a view made for Instagram. The sweep of Istanbul unfurling below– there’s the New Mosque, and the Galata Tower, and the curling blue of the Bosphorus. The seeming precarious perch. The illusion of solitude. Buyuk Valide Han is part of the Grand Bazaar with a splendid (and accessible) rooftop view. It’s tricky to find […]

The Purple Cold of Kiev

Posted on Mar 14, 2017 in Photography, Ukraine | 6 Comments
The Purple Cold of Kiev

I went to Kiev in the beginning of February, when the skies were white and blank and the sidewalks sleek with ice. I needed a few days out of Turkey, but fleeing from the rainy chill of Istanbul to the bitter cold of Kiev seemed counter-intuitive. I admit, I avoided the forecast before I bought […]

February 2017

Posted on Mar 1, 2017 in Monthly, Turkey, Ukraine | 4 Comments
February 2017

February felt like a reset after overextending myself in January; it was a chance to be grounded and calm and to catch up with many, many friends. Lots of laughter this month got me through the last gasp of dreary winter. Best Of The Month I needed to get out of Istanbul at the beginning […]

Coney Island Of My Mind

Posted on Feb 20, 2017 in USA | No Comments
Coney Island Of My Mind

The world is a beautiful place to be born into if you don’t mind happiness not always being so very much fun if you don’t mind a touch of hell now and then just when everything is fine because even in heaven they don’t sing all the time (excerpt from A Coney Island Of The […]

Istanbul Half-Frames

Posted on Feb 14, 2017 in Black-and-White Cities, Photography, Turkey | No Comments
Istanbul Half-Frames

The hazy, dreamy diptychs that I can create with my Olympus Pen suit one city more than any other– Istanbul. It’s easy to forget after living here for so long that this city is so enrapturing. It’s even easier to forget the poetic joys of the place when the mood is darkened by short days […]

The Oasis of Haydarpasa Cemetery

Posted on Feb 7, 2017 in Culture, Turkey | No Comments
The Oasis of Haydarpasa Cemetery

It’s not easy to find quiet places in Istanbul. The city fizzes with relentless energy, buzzy and bustling, crowded and crunching up against your shoulder. But one of my favorite quiet places is hiding in plain sight. Haydarpasa Cemetery was established in the mid-19th century as a resting place for British soldiers, and exists as […]

January 2017

Posted on Feb 1, 2017 in Monthly, Personal, Turkey | 2 Comments
January 2017

After a mad bit of travel from the end of September on (during which I was never in Istanbul for more than 10 days at a time), I was desperate to stay in one place for a little while. So this January was spent completely in Istanbul, renewing my love for the city, and making […]

Four Years Abroad

Posted on Jan 29, 2017 in Personal, Turkey, Yearly | 6 Comments
Four Years Abroad

At the end of July, I sat down and made a list. On it was all the places I’d move to if I had to leave Istanbul quickly. Belgrade, Tbilisi, Kiev, Prague… places I could get to fast and perhaps settle into some substitute version of my life. After the events of July 15, making […]

The Kiev Crematorium

Posted on Jan 17, 2017 in Ukraine | No Comments
The Kiev Crematorium

When most people visit Kiev, they don’t spend their first day at a crematorium. But I was in Kiev with my friend Nate, comrade in concrete, fellow enthusiast of Soviet-era architecture, and we weren’t about to waste a sunny day on something that was just plain pretty. No, we wanted to see something strange and […]