“Off The Beaten Path” Is Not So Far In Istanbul

Istanbul’s well-trodden tourist neighborhoods are full of beautiful, historical sights. The first time I visited the famous Hagia Sofia was in 2008 and it still takes my breath away.

But nearby the “guidebook-recommended” areas, there are similarly fascinating places to explore, hidden in plain sight. Sulthanahmet, Galata, and Taksim all deserve attention, time, and energy. Wander a little to the side, down that tiny street, up that quiet hill, and there are whole other neighborhoods with their own wonderful personalities just waiting to be discovered.

Armenian Churches in Kumkapi

Kumkapi is an historically Armenian neighborhood that lies down a steep hill just across from the Grand Bazaar. But while Sultanahmet and the bazaar are bubbling over with tourists, Kumkapi’s streets are populated by locals pushing carts full of grapes and eating cig kofte. The neighborhood is known for its incredibly fresh (if slightly overpriced) fish restaurants and Armenian churches, which are open to the public. Colorful lanterns and laundry are strung up overhead as perpetual decorations, and the quiet cobblestoned side streets and tea houses are perfect for a leisurely cay. I spent a day here with Kate, Tom, and Mario, and we were thoroughly charmed by the authentic energy of this district.

Fruit Vendor in Kumkapi

Hazy Cihangir Streets

The neighborhoods of Cihangir and Cukurcuma are funky, modern, and hip– and walking distance from the Galata Tower. The hilly streets are lined with coffee shops, vintage boutiques and antique knick-knacks, art studios buzzing, and bars serving bacon. It’s a modern, young part of the city, ripe for exploring. I’ve written about exploring Cihangir before, and the neighborhood continues to surprise me. I am always discovering new adorable cafes, or cats conveniently positioned under pro-democracy graffiti!

Pro-democracy cat in Cihangir

Taksim Square is the center of nightlife, but the nearby neighborhood of Besiktas is the best for breakfasts. The tangled back alleys of the Carsi are full of kahvalti joints serving up fresh Turkish breakfasts in charming cafes. The traditional feast is long and expansive, which is perfect– pull up a chair in a sidewalk table and you won’t want to leave, between the many spreads and cheeses and the excellent Besiktas people-watching. Or just do what I always tend to do in Besiktas—wander and get lost and get un-lost again. It never gets boring.

Good Morning, Besiktas

There are accommodations available all over the city, especially near these areas– the wonderful treat about undiscovered neighborhoods tucked near major tourist sites is that they are accessible from all the places an Istanbul visitor would plan to go. HostelBookers.com has a wide range of affordable hotels listed in many different parts of Istanbul. So if you want to stay near The Blue Mosque or the Galata Tower or Istiklal Avenue, but perhaps explore a less-touristed Istanbul neighborhood, you can look into historical Kumpkapi, funky Cihangir, or bustling Besiktas!

This city is giant, brimming over with disparate communities brushing against each other and the historical and the modern touching toes. It’s easy to follow all the major points from your guidebook and never quite make it into these areas– but when off-the-beaten-path is so close by, the real travel adventures are waiting just around the corner.