Turkey Posts
Akyaka In The Time Of Wildfires
At the end of July 2021, the second pandemic summer, Claire and I drove…
November 2, 2022
A Purple Weekend in Sapanca
Turkey was entering its fourth month of weekend lockdowns when we decided it was…
August 5, 2021
Don’t Come Here
A few months ago, I got an email out of the blue from a…
June 15, 2021
Eight Years Abroad
Every year I reflect back not on December 31, but on January 29, the…
January 29, 2021
This Pandemic Summer
We held hands and approached the blank blackness of the sea, steadying each other…
September 14, 2020
A Day In Kisirkaya
We met for breakfast at my favorite menemen joint in Kadikoy and poured over…
February 14, 2020
An Ode To Vacation, Solitude, and Balance
“Aren’t you always on vacation?” I hear this constantly, often in half-jest, usually not.…
October 21, 2019
How do we write about travel and migration?
Two years ago, soon after I’d returned from a reporting trip in Tunisia, I…
June 27, 2019
An Elegy For The Hekimbasi
“We always have two seats for Cornucopia.” When the organizer of the classical concerts…
April 27, 2018
A Weekend in Van
We thought we’d go to Georgia and spend a weekend drinking Caucasian wine in…
March 30, 2018
Five Years Abroad
Today, I’ve been in Istanbul for half a decade. Five years ago, when I…
January 29, 2018
The Grand Bazaar on Volvox Film
I can’t control myself when it comes to strange film. Lomography sells all kinds…
November 15, 2017
Chasing Autumn in the Kackars
Around September or October, when summer slowly slips away from Istanbul, I feel this…
October 24, 2017
A Journey To Turkey’s Georgian Monasteries
Most of the wonderful places in the world are ones we’ll only ever experience…
September 23, 2017
“Isn’t It Dangerous?”
When I was in Tunisia in May, my friend Danielle and I went to…
July 12, 2017
On Travel, Home, and Balance
Recently I was gushing to my friend Masha about how happy I was to…
May 23, 2017
The Best View In Istanbul: Buyuk Valide Han
It’s a view made for Instagram. The sweep of Istanbul unfurling below– there’s the…
March 27, 2017
Istanbul Half-Frames
The hazy, dreamy diptychs that I can create with my Olympus Pen suit one…
February 14, 2017
The Oasis of Haydarpasa Cemetery
It’s not easy to find quiet places in Istanbul. The city fizzes with relentless…
February 7, 2017
Four Years Abroad
At the end of July, I sat down and made a list. On it…
January 29, 2017
Istanbul’s Hidden Botanical Garden
The Atasehir neighborhood on Istanbul’s Asian side is a mess of highways and mismatched…
October 10, 2016
The Dreamspace Between Istanbul and New York City
Alison and I met each other in college. We were both theater directors and…
September 26, 2016
This Melancholy Summer
Istanbul summer is supposed to be full of joy. At this time last year,…
July 27, 2016
A New Normal
“My soul, my beauty, my dolorous one, the day of disaster is at hand,…
July 22, 2016
Trapped in Turkey, Again
I didn’t think I’d find myself in this situation again, but here we are.…
May 30, 2016
The Concrete Splendor Of Sancaklar Mosque
It’s no secret that I am drawn to strange buildings, from the Brutalist behemoths…
May 6, 2016
Istanbul In The Snow
Sometimes it’s easy to feel immune to the magic of Istanbul. Living here means…
March 11, 2016
Three Years Abroad
Thirteen months ago, I started a new job. I’d been in Istanbul for just…
January 29, 2016
Istanbul, As Ever
I’ve started writing so many pieces this year called “Istanbul Is Safe, Really.” Then…
January 14, 2016
Crossing The Bridge
There’s a running joke among writer expats in Istanbul about the repeated clichés of…
January 8, 2016
The Istanbul Hotel Wes Anderson Would Love
I didn’t read the fine print. I have this terrible habit of visiting exhibitions…
December 4, 2015
Strange Cappadocia on LomoChrome Purple
I shoot film to capture the way places feel, not the way they look.…
November 17, 2015
Cappadocia Magic, Without Balloons
I wanted the cliché. Cappadocia, that wild region in central Anatolia, has an iconic…
November 12, 2015
The Bayram Hush
It’s a holiday this week in Istanbul. The feast of the sacrifice– Kurban Bayram…
September 24, 2015
Why I Read War and Peace On Vacation
I spoke about it as a joke: “I’m going to the beach for a…
August 27, 2015
A Panic Attack On Top Of A Waterfall
I was sitting in a cold green pool on top of a waterfall, having…
August 24, 2015
So You’re Traveling in Turkey During Ramadan
The first summer I lived in Turkey, I had one plan: get the heck…
June 17, 2015
Biking the Islands: Heybeliada and Kinaliada
I am always up for an adventure, no matter how absurd. Last year, Nacho…
June 9, 2015
Exceptional Istanbul Days
I never forget that I live my daily life in an extraordinary city. I…
June 3, 2015
Reconsidering Diyarbakir
The last time I was in Diyarbakir, Turkey, it was in July during Ramadan.…
May 23, 2015
Istanbul, April, and Turkish Tulips
APRIL is the cruellest month, breeding Lilacs out of the dead land, mixing Memory…
April 17, 2015
Neglecting Istanbul and My Cameras
I still live in Istanbul. That statement seems fairly obvious to me, but maybe…
March 31, 2015
Two Years Abroad
I remember New Year’s Eve, 2012. I’d flown in from Aruba that morning—a body…
January 29, 2015
Everywhere Can Be A Home
It’s that time of year when everyone starts reflecting on the year that is…
December 26, 2014
I Have Found Heaven and It’s Kabak Valley
Down on Turkey’s southwest coast, past Fethiye and Oludeniz with its swarms of sun-baked…
December 8, 2014
A Bicycle Is Freedom: Four Days Around Lake Iznik
To me, a bicycle is freedom. Traveling under your own speed feels completely liberating.…
December 4, 2014
Difficulties in Diyarbakir
It is not unusual to meet Turks in Istanbul who have never been farther…
November 10, 2014
Mardin, The Most Marvelous City in Southeast Turkey
Mardin. MARDIN. I was not expecting Mardin. Southeast Turkey was not only different from…
October 21, 2014
Go To Hasankeyf Before Hasankeyf Goes
In March, I dreamed I went to Hasankeyf. It was one of those vivid…
October 3, 2014
Queen of the Euphrates in Halfeti
The day trip debacle to Harran left me in a pickle. Harran hadn’t been…
September 22, 2014
A Day Trip and a Big Mistake
It was actually a terrific day, until it ended. But even the best day…
September 5, 2014
Sanliurfa: Urfa The Glorious
When I arrived in Urfa, I realized that this trip would be special. The…
August 20, 2014
On Writing
Polly from A Girl And Her Travels challenged me to answer these three questions…
August 14, 2014
The Awe Of Mt. Nemrut
The heads sit severed on peak of the mountain. An eagle, a lion, a…
August 4, 2014
The Trapped In Turkey Tour Ends
The Trapped in Turkey Tour is over. The tour was technically only three weeks…
July 24, 2014
Returning To The Place I Left
Tomorrow I’m going back to Boston. I’ve spent this last week in Istanbul living…
July 23, 2014
Those Istanbul Nights
The blue roofs open to the sky and we bounce to giddy Balkan beats.…
July 20, 2014
Shooting A Discontinued Roll
I am constantly learning about film photography. I’ve been shooting and developing it since…
July 9, 2014
The Chora, At Last!
I visited Istanbul as a tourist three times before moving here in January 2013–…
June 27, 2014
Hidirellez: Istanbul’s Most Raucous Night
Last year, I heard about a festival on Istanbul’s Golden Horn full of gypsy…
June 23, 2014
Ikamet Woes and The TRAPPED IN TURKEY Tour
I’ve been quiet about something that’s consumed me. For the last eight weeks, I’ve…
June 15, 2014
Istanbul’s Gray Days
Often I think the best times to explore Istanbul’s neighborhood are on the gray days.…
June 8, 2014
Whirling Through Konya, Turkey’s Mystical City
Come, come, whoever you are, Wanderer, idolater, worshiper of fire, Come even though you…
May 8, 2014
Istanbul in Black-and-White
Istanbul is overwhelming for the senses. The smells of coffee and fish and slow-cooked…
April 19, 2014
Would You Travel With Someone You Only Met Once?
I met Bridget this summer in Montenegro. I’d been sick and stuck in Kotor…
April 13, 2014
The Silent Steampunk Charm of SantralIstanbul
The Silahtaraga Power Station illuminates no more. It stands there, imposing, dark. The station…
April 10, 2014
Sali Pazari: Discovering My Neighborhood Market
Sometimes I’m so eager to explore farther corners of this sprawling city that I…
February 27, 2014
I Went To A Camel Wrestling Festival. Yes, Really.
I stood in the middle of the sunny pitch, surrounded by dancing old men…
February 24, 2014
A Year Abroad
It’s been a year. A whole year. When I left snowy Boston and landed…
January 29, 2014
Sometimes Being An Expat Is Frustrating
Moving abroad is one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. The last year…
January 12, 2014
A Dance For Haydarpasa
It began like this: “Let’s meet at Haydarpasa. I think there’s some kind of…
January 6, 2014
Istanbul is the Crossroads of MY World
There are a lot of clichés about Istanbul— it’s where East meets West, it’s…
January 2, 2014
Exploring Fenerbahce Park (With Help From HowToIstanbul)
I love Istanbul for its wild energy, its never-ending activity. Life is almost always…
December 29, 2013
Expat Holidays
I don’t get homesick very often. Aside from an early case of the Istanblues,…
December 24, 2013
The Beauty of Seasonal Produce in Istanbul
I noticed it first when the pomegranates disappeared. In the beginning of my time…
December 10, 2013
“Off The Beaten Path” Is Not So Far In Istanbul
Istanbul’s well-trodden tourist neighborhoods are full of beautiful, historical sights. The first time I…
December 6, 2013
HowToIstanbul: For Beaches, Parks, and New Adventures
This summer, all I wanted was a beach. Istanbul was sweaty hot and seemingly…
December 2, 2013
In Rainbows In Istanbul
In September, Istanbul was invaded. They crept in by night, climbing steadily and quietly…
November 3, 2013
The Ancient Ruins of Ani
Imagine this: a land of vibrant green plains with a picture-perfect cornflower blue sky.…
October 1, 2013
Kars Is Sweet With Balyolu
In my imagination, Kars is filled with snow. Because, you see, Snow is full of…
September 30, 2013
Ephesus vs Hierapolis: Seeking The Secret Amphitheater
Can a giant amphitheater at a well-known tourist attraction feel like a secret? Well,…
August 3, 2013
The First Six Months
Time flows, warps, meanders, confounds. I blink and suddenly I’ve been abroad for six…
July 29, 2013
Izmir: Turkey’s Laid-Back City
Istanbul is wild, bursting, complex; not unusual for a giant city with 15 million…
July 27, 2013
A Mosque-Crawl Through Mimar Sinan’s Masterpieces
Istanbul’s most swoon-worthy architecture tends to be old. Mosque, hamams, fountains, fortresses; these are…
July 24, 2013
Turkey’s Cotton Castles: Perfect Pamukkale
The first time I saw the pictures, I thought, This can’t be real. Pristine…
July 20, 2013
How To Visit A Mosque in Istanbul
I love visiting churches, mosques, and synagogues when I travel, but sometimes places of…
July 17, 2013
My Roommate Makes Monsters
My roommate builds creatures. Gozde is a sculptor. Her works are offbeat, off-kilter, corporeal.…
July 16, 2013
Cappadocia Is Wild
I’ve been dreaming of Cappadocia’s moonscapes for years. The region in the middle of…
July 8, 2013
Sometimes The Nicest Thing Is A Pool on a Roof
Summer in Istanbul is unbearably hot and sticky. Compounding this (very typical) problem are…
July 5, 2013
This Time, We’re Going To The Top: Besting Buyukada
The first time I went to Buyukada, we never made it to the top.…
July 3, 2013
Here Comes An Adventure!
It’s finally set! I’ve been plotting and scheming about my summer travel plans for…
July 1, 2013
My New Favorite Mosque
Istanbul’s skyline is full of exquisite mosques. Resplendent with grand bluish domes, minarets like…
June 28, 2013
Gezi Park and The Lingering Gas
This is not a political blog. I started this website to share my analogue…
June 19, 2013
Escape to Antalya
It took me almost three months to travel out of Istanbul. I didn’t mean…
June 12, 2013
Escaping The City Without Really Leaving: A Day Biking on Buyukada
Just a note: I went to Buyukada before the recent protests and I wrote…
June 6, 2013
The Gezi Park Protest From The Perspective Of An Avoider
Istanbul is filled with protesters, riot police, tear gas. Taksim Square is a war…
June 4, 2013
Why You Shouldn’t Skip The Harem at Topkapi Palace
I visited Istanbul as a tourist three times before I moved here, and during…
May 29, 2013
How To See All The Major Tourist Sites in Istanbul in Three Days
I knew when my family came to Istanbul that I would be their tour…
May 27, 2013
Istanbul’s Hidden Beach: The Beautiful Secret of Kilyos
Istanbul is surrounded by beautiful water: the rolling Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara. I…
May 22, 2013
The Tarlabasi Sunday Market
There’s this neighborhood you’re not supposed to go to in Istanbul. It’s poor, full…
May 20, 2013
I Was Deported From Turkey
I wish that title was an exaggeration. It’s not. Perhaps you’ve been wondering why…
May 15, 2013
It’s Family Visit Time!
I haven’t been posting as often this week as I’d like to. But I…
April 29, 2013
That Sunny Sunday on Rumeli Feneri
Sometimes, I follow folks on adventures without fully figuring out where we’re going. I’m…
April 25, 2013
The Istanblues
I first heard about the W-curve before I studied abroad in Prague. The W-curve…
April 15, 2013
A Day Exploring Cihangir
When I decided to move to Istanbul, I knew exactly which neighborhood I was…
April 11, 2013
How Some Balloons Almost Got Me Shot
It began simply, with a twist of the fantastic. We were walking along the…
April 4, 2013
We’re In This Together: The Shared Misery of Istanbul’s Traffic
In New York, it’s the prices. In Boston, it’s the weather. In Istanbul, the…
April 1, 2013
From Europe to Asia and Back Again: Riding Istanbul’s Ferry
Commuting in Istanbul can be a real hassle. Traffic is bad. Buses seem to…
March 27, 2013
Notes on Teaching English, So Far.
As the weeks here roll on, I find myself slowly establishing a life. I’ve…
March 26, 2013
A Love Letter to the Seaside
Dear Moda, dear Caddebostan, dear Bosphorus banks, I think I’m falling for you. In…
March 18, 2013
Is Istanbul Beautiful?
“Istanbul, a universal beauty where poet and archeologist, diplomat and merchant, princess and sailor,…
March 7, 2013
Some Brief Thoughts on My First Month in Istanbul
Well, wow. I’ve been in Istanbul for one month now. It seems unbelievable sometimes.…
February 28, 2013
Off the Beaten Path in Fatih
The Couchsurfing photowalk that took me to Yedikule Fortress didn’t end there. We spent much…
February 22, 2013
How To Make Friends and Not Fall Off A Wall: Exploring Yedikule Fortress
One of my biggest fears in a new place is loneliness. What if I…
February 19, 2013
My Istanbul Past
This is my fourth trip to Istanbul, my first for a long-term stay. Istanbul…
February 16, 2013
Why am I in Istanbul?
WHY? I have been asked this question so many times, both before I left…
February 10, 2013